The Coffee Experience

Today, my wife and I set out on an early morning adventure, making the 3-hour drive from Kigali to the Huye area in Rwanda’s Southern Province to take part in a coffee experience hosted by Gihomarts & Cultours Ltd. It was our first time driving that route, so we weren’t sure what to expect from the road conditions. Thankfully, the drive was smooth—and the journey felt much shorter than expected as we passed through the scenic Rwandan countryside, listening to music and chatting along the way.

We arrived 30 minutes early and found ourselves alone at the site. Our tour was scheduled to begin at 10:00 a.m., so during the wait, our guide graciously introduced us to a traditional Rwandan board game. He explained that it was originally created by the king of the Huye region—before the area became part of a unified Rwanda—as a way to train his soldiers in strategy and tactical thinking. The game was fascinating and offered an unexpected cultural insight to start the day.

At 10:00 a.m., the coffee experience officially began. We hiked up a gentle hill to a section of coffee plants where our guide explained the different stages of ripeness in coffee cherries: green (unripe), yellow (nearly ripe), and red (fully ripe). He picked a red cherry, opened it, and showed us the two slippery, slimy beans inside. These beans must be washed and dried to remove the slimy outer layer, and then further processed to extract the inner bean—what we know as the coffee bean—that is eventually roasted and brewed.

As we explored the farm, several locals curiously observed us. One woman, who turned out to be the owner of the coffee plants we were inspecting, arrived to drop fresh leaves and plant matter at the base of her trees. Our guide explained that this method helps retain soil moisture and suppress weed growth, which in turn protects the roots and supports healthy yields.

With our guide translating between English and Kinyarwanda, we had the chance to ask her questions. She told us she’s been growing coffee for over 40 years—an impressive testament to her experience and dedication. We also learned that the timing of the harvest is crucial; if the cherries fall off the trees before being picked, it leads to financial losses. Depending on the scale of the farm, landowners often hire community members to help harvest. Payment isn’t always monetary—sometimes it’s in the form of food from other crops, a practice that harkens back to Rwanda’s traditional barter-based economy.

After exploring the coffee plants, we returned to the base to learn how to roast, grind, and brew coffee in the traditional way. A ceramic pot was placed over an open flame, suspended by three stones. Raw beans were added to the pot and stirred with a long wooden spoon as they roasted. Occasionally, we had to blow away bits of chaff—leftover outer shells from the beans.

Once the beans reached our desired roast level—light, medium, or dark—we transferred them into a wooden mortar and pestle to grind them by hand. This part took a bit of effort and left my arms sore, but it was rewarding. We then added the freshly ground coffee to a boiling pot of water (1 liter of water to 4 cups of ground coffee), let it brew, and finally poured it into handmade ceramic mugs crafted by local artisans.

Sipping the coffee we had prepared ourselves, using traditional techniques and locally grown beans, was incredibly satisfying. It was more than just a beverage—it was a connection to the land, the people, and their heritage.

By the time we wrapped up, it was nearly 3:00 p.m., and with another 3-hour drive ahead of us, we decided it was time to head home. My wife had driven in the morning, so I took the wheel for the return trip. After such a full and enriching day, neither of us felt like cooking, so we ordered some Indian curry and naan through Vuba Vuba (Rwanda’s version of Uber Eats). We ate, relaxed, and reflected on our experience.

My legs were sore from the hike and my arms from grinding the beans, but I felt happy and fulfilled. I knew I was going to sleep well tonight.